Vacheron Constantin Overseas vs Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-010 vs 4500V/110A-B128

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-010 vs Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V/110A-B128 is a marquee battle of Geneva-based horological heavy hitters. Few luxury watch brands carry the prestige and history or command the same degree of watch collector reverence than Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Patek Philippe Nautilus versus Vacheron Constantin Overseas starts now.

Patek Philippe’s Nautilus 5711 launched at Baselworld 2006. Technically, this model remains the “30th anniversary” Nautilus and the modern equivalent of the original Gerald Genta/Patek Philippe reference 3700 “jumbo.” At 40mm, the stainless steel Nautilus automatic is anything but a jumbo by modern watch standards, but it cuts a striking figure on even the largest wrists. Patek Philippe’s stainless steel bracelet and secure deployant clasp feature the same immaculate level of finish and intricate detail seen on the case of the Nautilys.

The blue gradient dial of the 5711 is legendary, and this Nautilus doesn’t disappoint; its horizontal striations, crisp spectrum of blue tones, and white gold dial furniture are the stuff of legend. Patek includes white gold hands, a jump date, and minimal dial text to mar the watch face. Super Luminova paint is employed to keep the Nautilus legible by night. A screw down crown and 120-meter water resistance keep the dial in Geneva-grade trim regardless of the owner’s aquatic adventures.

A Patek Philippe automatic caliber 324 powers this iconic sports watch. The 324’s 35-45 hour power reserve is adequate, but its finish is sensational. Hand-applied finishing flourishes includes cotes de Geneve, mirrored anglage (chamfering), two different sizes of overlapping perlage (engine turning), and black polished screws with chamfered slots. A Gyromax free sprung balance permits precise regulation in six positions, and a Patek Philippe Siloxi silicon hairspring helps to keep magnetism at bay. The presence of a Patek Philippe seal indicates timing precision of -3/+2 seconds per day or better.

Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Automatic has evolved in quantum leaps since the original 1996 model. The debut model was well-crafted but almost quaint; the generation 3 Vacheron Overseas Automatic is built to compete with not only the Nautilus and the Aquanaut but also with the mighty Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore.

Vacheron’s 41mm stainless steel case draws heavily on previous Overseas design conventions and the historical touchstone of the entire series, the 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222. A cushion case profile, satin steel grain, polished steel highlights, and a prominent bezel are the salient features. The crown is a screw-down unit, and the Overseas Auto boasts 150-meter water resistance; for good measure, a paramagnetic ring surrounds the movement and imbues the watch with 25,000 ampere/meter antimagnetic shielding.

A full stainless steel bracelet is included with the steel Overseas Automatic, but the watch also includes both rubber and leather factory straps in a blue color that’s perfectly keyed to the dial. A steel deployant clasp is included with the two accessory straps, and a quick release system permits swapping of straps and bracelet without need for tools. For good measure, the Overseas bracelet makes all links removable or precise sizing.

If FP Journe’s “Cadraniers de Geneve” dial factory were involved with the production of this Vacheron Constantin Overseas dial, it would surprise exactly zero owners of VC’s signature sports watch. This Overseas sports a blue dial that is at once glossy, bottomless, iridescent, and beaming with a mirrored radiance in even the most subdued lighting. While the dial of the Nautilus is a time tested classic, Vacheron’s dial might be a legend in the making. White gold hands, and hour indices keep the quality of dial furniture high, and a jump date matches the utility of the 5711.

Inside the steel case, a Vacheron Constantin manufacture caliber 5100 automatic movement keeps the beat at 28,800. This 37-jewel movement is both the first in-house caliber to grace a Vacheron Overseas and the first Overseas caliber to boast a Geneva Hallmark (Poincon de Geneve). A power reserve of 60 hours comfortably surpasses the modest autonomy of the Nautilus. The sapphire display case back represents the first of its kind in an Overseas watch.

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Comments

jumboJetPilot says:

Hey Tim, take a look at the thumbnail pic and then see what happens once the video starts. For some reason, and only recently, your camera isn’t really picking up colors very well. I don’t know if it’s lighting (maybe a higher color temperature would be better) or if it’s recent camera acquisition. That spectacular blue dial on the Overseas looks more like a dull gray/black on the video. I just figured I’d point that out because we’re missing out on colors.

Tru Lai says:

I have small wrists so the Patek works better for me. Even if that weren’t the case, the Patek is a much more beautiful and unique design. It’s iconic case and shape really differentiates it from all other watches. It oozes class and has so much finesse. The VC is a great watch too. The only real solution would be to work harder and buy both. Get the VC first to hold you over while you sit on an imaginary 5 year waitlist for the Patek.

Matt Wasilewicz says:

I recently added the VC Gen 3 Chrono in blue to my collection, and I love it. Your reviews are always so detailed, but Inhave noticed that even in your other Overseas review, you didnt mention the two micro adjustments in the bracelet when talking about how sizeable it is. Did you miss them?

JungleEddie says:

I guess I am the only one that thinks the Patek Philippe looks like a maxi pad with wings.

jumboJetPilot says:

In keeping with the concept of “Overseas”, which eludes to it being a travel watch, I really wished VC would have done it as a GMT watch, preferably utilizing screw down push buttons, one for “+” and one for “-“, for the 12 hour hand adjustment a la UN Travel Time style. They could have utilized a 24 hour scale in lieu of the outer peripheral printing with sub-minute indices (which is unnecessary in a non-chronograph anyway). We really need “traveler’s watches” to be GMT’s. A deep red hand against that deep blue dial would be most excellent.

Sincerely, a professional traveler!

Matthias Heuberger says:

even if you could buy the 5711 at retail you’d get a lot more for your money with the overseas.

David Datura says:

For me it’s the Patek, the Vacheron is rather ordinary looking, even though I do like the luminous blue finish of the dial and the easily removable bracelet. Which I think is more stylish than the watch itself. I am surprised at the lack of hacking seconds on both of these very pricey watches though.

SP says:

I think the Patek is due for an update

Christian Zimmermann Witt says:

Hated the VC when I first lay eye on it some Month back…..boy was i wrong, this might be the king of tool watches within a reasonable money frame

OllieG Hamster says:

PP seems to be resting on its laurels. While the design is iconic, it’s movement and mechanics seem to be getting long in the tooth.

2deep5u says:

I’m partial to the Nautilus myself, to be honest. If only I had the means!

john dandola says:

Tim, your written narrative is always fantastic and your talents as a wordsmith are unmatched.  I read the discussion and picture the timepieces in vivid detail.  For me the VC takes the prize.

49fiori says:

VC and THANK YOU TIM FOR THIS REVIEW!!!!!!

D William says:

Tim, How does the Vacheron wear, size wise compared to the previous Overseas model?

Tianci Liu says:

VC for me

Hue Man says:

I like the VC more

Zeitgeist says:

Winner: VC

Luis Alfonso Alba says:

Hard to tell, I have them both and love them

dimitris bastas says:

Overseas. But with white-silver or brown dial. The nautilus is insanely expensive and the movement works at 3 hz instead of vacheron at 4 hz. Also the clasp of vacheron is safer.

Y_u_no_ Come says:

Does anyone else look at the VC and think “I can mod my seiko 5 to look like that.”

Thomas Russo says:

Patek the ultimate sports watch Vacheron is third behind the Royal Oak

mena seven says:

I prefer the Vacheron Constantin Overseas instead of the Patek Philippe. The Vacheron Constantin is more beautiful then the Patek Philippe. I like the Vacheron Constantin Maltese cross case, Maltese cross quick release bracelet with screws and the double pusher clapse. I like VC gorgeous blue dial and the display case back showing the awesome rotor with the sun symbol. Vacheron Constantin give one leather strap and one rubber strap with the Overseas.

jason starek says:

Love the Overseas in general, but if price is no concern the PP is my pick.

That said, on paper, the VC is objectively better in nearly every way.

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