Patek. Audemars. Vacheron. Lange? Sports Watch Wars. Selling A Rolex GMT Batman. $5,000 Watches

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Luxury watch buyers join Tim Mosso for an evening of discussion, debate, and thought provoking proposals concerning luxury watch collecting, watch industry events, and watch buying advice. Tim’s main thoughts tonight concern A Lange & Sohne; why hasn’t Lange joined Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin among the ranks of luxury sports watch options? The Patek Philippe Aquanaut and Nautilus have never been hotter among watch buyers; Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore are the extent of the brand’s current must-have offerings; Vacheron Constantin spent a fortune in 2016 to launch its third-generation Overseas sports watch family. But A Lange & Sohne of Germany, which many consider a peer to these Swiss watch patricians, offers only precious metal dress watches in a marketplace that cannot get enough of steel luxury sports watches. Tim considers why Lange needs a sports watch, what an A Lange & Sohne sports model might look like, and how Lange can adapt current models to a more sporting sensibility on a special edition basis. Watch collectors seeking guidance are welcome on Watches Tonight; Tim helps a viewer decide how to spend the proceeds from his sale of a Rolex GMT Master 2 116710 BLNR, the “Batman.” Tim suggests time-tested options from Zenith watches, Bulgari watches, and Carl F. Bucherer’s Patravi Scubatec. How would Tim spend $5,000 on watches if Jaeger LeCoultre were off the table? An Omega Speedmaster X-33, Zenith El Primero Rainbow Flyback, Grand Seiko SBGH051, and a Gerald Genta Arena Sport provide the answers. Are oversized watches a thing of the past? Tim investigates how watch buyer tastes have changed over the last decade. Oversized watches from Rolex (Deepsea Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master II), Hublot’s King Power, Audemars Piguet’s 48mm Royal Oak Offshore, and the IWC Pilot’s Watch line are the subject of tonight’s reflection and analysis. Finally, Tim discusses the major luxury watch industry misfires and marketing shortfalls of 2018 today. Strategies and products including Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Club Indian Burt Monroe Tribute, Breitling’s Navitimer 8 range, Zenith’s Baselworld novelties, and the Swiss watch industry’s general lack of humor headline this segment. All of these features plus viewer watch wristshots tonight on Watches Live!

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Nasri Ozel Photography says:

Superb show…

Christopher Hermawan says:

Bathyscape 38mm is 10.77mm thick , pretty close though

gmshadowtraders says:

A Patek diver?! Heaven forbid lol

Abdul Rahman Abdel Razek says:

An A Lange & Söhne sports model in silver would be something that everyone will sought after, even a limited steel version will definitely bring big demand. I think a Zeitwerk in a sporty case would be a dream time piece.

G L says:

My respect for Moser just shot through the roof. Well played.

Phupisit Smittinet says:

Patek still have 5131, 6002, 5531,5524, and other model that doesn’t belong in nautilus Aquanaut that have long waiting list. I agree Vacheron n AP might have problem if they don’t have sport line

jumboJetPilot says:

Well Tim, I figured you’d pick yourself up a pre-owned Gerald Genta Grande Sonnerie generation one! And well said about Zenith; without solid brand identity through design style, it’s hard to put your finger on what exactly they are.

Light 15 says:

Consider a dual time VC generation two with blue dial or a dark graphite dial with the steel bracelet or gator/rubber strap? in exchange for a Rolex Batman?

John Kaufman says:

How about selling the “Batman” and buying a pre-owned Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42? They can be had for $8000.-9000. I have one and love it! Geneva seal movement and great design. Very high quality. I actually put mine on a steel bracelet!

Chris says:

That H.Moser is hilariously awesome.  I want that puppy framed and on my wall!

WatchBox Studios says:

Holy smokes! Right after this show, I glued a Continental Gatorskin tubular to an alloy Ambrosio rim for my holiday cycling here in the USA; it’s a good thing that I’m not going to be shooting watch reviews with what’s left of these hands! On a side note, how’d everyone enjoy tonight’s show? 😉

Drawing watches says:

AL&S ultra thin diver: Maybe adapt a microrotor or peripheral rotor to one of their ultrathin movements and get a dual swan neck spring balance cock for increased shock resistance. :3

leicanoct says:

No Panerai recommendations?

Mike K says:

Hi Tim: Last week, I heard that Rolex’s biggest competition to their new watches is pre-owned Rolex. Do you agree? Thanks, Mike K

Tim Kassuehlke says:

Sorry Tim, whilst I often find myself agreeing with your market assessments and viewpoints, I have to say that the Lange sport watch idea is not included in this category for me. Folks like myself, who appreciate high horology dress watches still find a way to appreciate relatively inexpensive dive watches, because they can be beat up and used as intended (just as the thin dress watch can also be used as intended), and the idea of a really highly finished dressy diver is not only antithetical to the appeal of Lange, but in my opinion would also serve to dilute the brand’s clear ethos: to create exceptional and highly functional watches that are extremely well thought out and executed – and I think a HH diver will never be used as ‘intended’, in that sense. To go even further, just the idea of owning something as confusing as a high end dive watch make me dislike the idea. Should Lange come out with even more casual watches? Perhaps. But a dive watch? I’d say no thanks. Thx for the great content as usual. Cheers, -Tim

heyyomane says:

Tim ur idea of a als diver almost had me orgasm…micro rotor, display case back and that lume..mmmmmm

valebliz says:

Back after a week riding in the Pyrenees. Nice stuff as always… When are you taking a vacation Tim? Lol

Club Soda says:

When Tim speaks, I listen

Christopher H. says:

Great show, and very insightful thoughts about an A Lange & Sohne sports watch (which is long overdue). While an ultra-thin diver (especially in Ti) is a great idea that would be theirs for the taking, it doesn’t strike me as very “Lange.” Personally, I picture subtle aviation influences upon a more “general” type of sports watch (like the maritime influences in the Royal Oak and Nautilus). The panorama datum and the lumen would be perfect Lange touches that should definitely be incorporated. No matter the design, I can’t really picture Lange producing a sports watch that I wouldn’t want to buy. The prospect is quite exciting. The time is right…may it happen soon!

zigzagyipyup says:

This channel’s voice volume is forever way too small. Can’t hear a thing while cooking, driving, exercising no matter on my phone or echo or tv. This is just good for meditation. That’s my only complaint to his channel. Damn.

Club Soda says:

Do a Rolex submariner review. We wanna know what it’s like

jumboJetPilot says:

As for Lange, a dive watch was exactly what I was thinking. I also think this what Piaget needs. But both need to make them have a GMT function a la PlanetOcean GMT. That way it becomes useful for professional travelers like me. Also, often times people travel across time zones in order to take a diving trip. A GMT with rapid adjust hours would be perfect! And I think 300M water resistance, bracelets easily interchangeable with rubber straps – both of which with micro adjustments, and hopefully tons of dial options, not just black, silver, white, and blue.

A Wilson says:

Respectfully, I couldn’t disagree more on the Lange sports watch discussion. Patek and AP, as independent companies, need their sports watches. VC only made the Overseas because it was an existing concept pre-Richemont. If AL&S made a sports watch, it’d dilute the brand and eat the other Richemont brands. Overseas, Piaget Polo, Cartier Santos and Cle de Cartier, Panerai Due or even Roger Dubuis Excaliber models already play in that segment. Any and all of the caveats you mentioned could be done for any of the other brands. A $25 Cartier thin sports watch limited to 100 pieces? They’d sell all of them out of the Hong Kong boutiques in 2 hours. How about dumping all the proposed marketing efforts into the Polo? Make that a driver for the brand, considering the Polo already has a strong history and brand foundation.

You started the segment asking how many of the non-sports watch lines are relevant for the big 3. Now think of AL&S. Datograph. Zeitwerk. 1815 Up/Down. Lange 1. AL&S has pieces with a ton of buzz because they maintain focus on what makes sense for the brand. Once you dip a toe into the sports watch world, you can’t go back.

Watch Aficionado says:

Silly Zenith Swizz beats models wrecked the new line…Also, Zenith should be the primary LVMH brand…not hublot.

AIARA says:

Hey Tim great episode. What’s the most complicated steel watch(es) that holds great resale value? No gold indices etc…

Larry Kippings says:


Tru Lai says:

I would buy a Lange & Mosso diver.

Zach Blass says:

Great show Tim! Was able to watch this morning!

David Elliott says:

Tim, interesting views on ALS sports watches. I’d prefer a chrono or diver in SS. Doesn’t need to be ultra thin for me.

John Caron says:

I am waiting to see a Lange sport’s watch; I know it might be awhile…

David Elliott says:

Nice picks with the Gerald Genta, Bulgari Octo, and Zenith Defy.

F Poynton says:

Very nice job Tim. Imho the VC dive watch would need top notch toughness to truly excell – like a thin high horology sea dweller – but then again that could be my pedestrian slant. I would love to own the CFB diver – glad to know it has your endorsement. ☺

James Lynch says:

Another brilliant show! Always interesting to get your opinion on bang for buck watches!

six and a third inches sixteen centimeters says:

Sell a BLNR? Is this some kind of sick joke? You can not be serious right now!

Ostravia says:

Cartier 2113 is 11mm

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