Patek Philippe Watches: My FIVE Favorites At Baselworld 2018

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Baselworld 2018 at the Patek Philippe stand was an embarrassment of riches. Although previous years of Baselworld have seen Patek Philippe launch more watches at the fair, the depth and quality of the 2018 collection was stunning. In this video review of Patek’s 2018 novelties, Tim Mosso selects his five favorites from the show. The Patek Philippe 5270P perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum with salmon dial was Tim’s overall favorite. Although other Patek Philippe watches have borne the Salmon dial in past years, the common thread tends to be their rarity, significance, or value. Along with the stunning 5270P salmon – the first-ever use of platinum in the Patek Philippe 5270 line – the 5270/1R rose gold variant with full bracelet suggests that these crowning-glory models may hint at the imminent end of the 5270 chronograph line; the previous Patek Philippe 5970P marked the terminal production phase of that storied reference. For the 50th anniversary of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse family, Patek launched a new rare handcrafts Golden Ellipse 5738/50P. The platinum Golden Ellipse includes a 39.5mm x 34.5mm case that keeps the model close to its eponymous “golden” aspect ratio, but the highlight of this model is the black enamel dial with 18-karat white gold base and freehand engraving in art nouveau volute motifs. These exquisite hand-crafted techniques are excruciating to apply and ensure that no two examples of this 100-piece limited edition will be exactly alike; a caliber 240 micro-rotor automatic movement provides power and keeps the Golden Ellipse 3738/50P less than 6.6mm thick. The new Patek Philippe 5205G-013 annual calendar takes a friendly complicated invented by Patek Philippe – the annual calendar – and pairs it with a stunning blue gradient dial. Unlike the beautiful but controversial 2017 Patek Philippe 5170P chronograph, which featured baguette diamond indices, the Baselworld 2018 5205G-013 sports only the sensational dial with its silver-to-navy fade. The Patek Philippe 5531R World Time Minute Repeater returns following its 10-piece limited run at the 2017 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in New York City. Still rose gold and graced with a cloisonné enamel center dial, the patented 5531R World Time Minute Repeater shows 24 time zones simultaneously while correctly chiming the time in whichever reference city is indicated by the world time index. The combination of the two complications to work in synch is the subject of a patent for Patek Philippe. Finally, Tim salutes the playful and practical Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronogaph 5968A. New for 2018 and unprecedented in the Aquanaut sports watch line, the Aquanaut Chronograph is a stainless steel celebration of the youthful spirit an unassuming profile of the Aquanaut. Unlike its older and Sterner (sorry!) brother, the Nautilus, the Aquanaut Chronograph carries little snob baggage or weight of history on its 42.2mm shoulders. The Patek Philippe 5968A sports cheerful sunburst grey, white gold hands and indices, and flourishes of bright orange color on its dial; a full orange composite strap is available for those who want to make an even more casual statement. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph remains water resistant to 120 meters and features a sapphire display caseback through which to appreciate the caliber CH 28-520 automatic flyback chronograph movement. If given a choice between the Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A and the new Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G, Tim would choose the Aquanaut and pocket the $70,000 difference.

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Comments

leicanoct says:

When is Patek coming out with a diver watch?

Daniel Katz says:

But i think you appear to have your feet rooted in the round a touch more as a communicator…….this Foulkes chap looks like a secret agent from the 50’s that came here in aa time machine, a good a guy , i dont know him , just my guess

Joseph Keightley says:

Everyone else is playing checkers while Tim is playing underwater 4D chess.You’re running circles around other channels. Keep doing what you do best. Providing thoughtful analysis and more often than not, going against the tide.

Daniel Katz says:

I saw someone that knows almost as much about stuff as you, Nick Foulkes touring around Basel casually with Wei Koh

sypen1 says:

With exception of the 5270 Alange make much better dress watches in my opinion the rest of the dress watches from Patek look like crap compared to Alange offerings

Jari Norvanto says:

It may be a novelty, but ca 44K for the steel Aquanaut chronograph is still lofty. If it retains value, I’m not sure. If it does, then ‘price is what you pay, value is what you get’. One can disregard all of this, since timepieces are very much an emotional thing. Maybe this one goes for both those who buy to keep/wear and those who plan to sell. As our host often states, watches are much an emotional thing, not a necessity.

Pedro Saenz says:

Very interesting report. However Patek Phillip look to be a far away manufacturer from normal people. I think we will see changes in this manufacturer or see them be shrinking….

Tru Lai says:

I’m a big fan of the Aquanaut Chrono. Just the price is way too much for a SS on rubber strap.

valebliz says:

Great video Tim, better than most stuff from guys who actually are at Basel, producing very clumsy, if not downright annoying, content…

Jonathane Lewis says:

Tim, you are a Rockstar! To say ” keep up the good work” would be useless. You’re greatly appreciated.

Eli Santiago says:

As a young watch-enthusiast (late 20s) I believe the Swiss watch market is disconnected and it is probably only going to get worst.

I believe to keep the high end Swiss market industry afloat through this disruptive period, Swiss watch industry NEEDS to continue to compete for valuable wrist estate on new, young generation of aspiring watch-lovers.

Look and ask around. Yes, youngs still recognize MAJOR brands such as Rolex and Omega. But do they aspire to own one like their parents? NO! It doesn’t bring the same emotion & satisfaction to these young executives as compared to their parents’ generation. A common question from my friends: why ‘waste’ $10,000 on branded watches when one can buy other practical high-value items or even to travel for life experience?

Unlike the previous generations, these millennials no longer seek materialistic pursuit. They find no utility in buying luxury items to flaunt their hard-earned wealth.

It is time for the Swiss watch industry to play some catch-up. I really, really hope Swiss watch industry will survive the onslaught of smartwatch competition. With the huge drop in interest to own artistic, luxury, mechanical timepieces, the industry must think long and deep on new strategies to engage and spark the horological interest in the new potential wave of clients. And one of the way is to get on the fad.

Bubba B says:

Good coverage Tim, I can see why the Neptune grabs your attention. Interesting bracelet. Overall nothing really popped for PP. I think they need to be innovative something out of their comfort zone. Good show though. Thanx.

jumboJetPilot says:

I really like copper/salmon dials, particularly with blued steel hands similar to that on the 5270P. I would like to see this look spread throughout the industry. And I always loved the Neptune!

Cam M. says:

I’m losing hope in the big 2 these days. Wouldn’t be surprised if my collection consists of Grand Seiko and Lange pieces within a few years

Amintas Neto says:

Great picks Tim!
Patek in my humble opinion was the big winner of Basel 2018.
They managed to bring a very balanced collection mixing grand complications, state of the art finishing, sports pieces plus a stunning 5270P.
My only criticism about novities is on the Aquanaut chronograph.
I really love the design and the orange accents.
However, Patek could have done it a twelve-hour chrono instated of just one hour 😉
BTW, speaking about PP chronos do you feel it might be the end of the road for the 5170 as well?

Best,
Amintas

Just Watch says:

Tim, I very much enjoy watching your videos, you have excellent oratory skills and great knowledge! Keep up the great work!

Phil Patek says:

Nice synopsis Tim. You left out the 5124G which has a spectacular salmon dial and is an every day, casually elegant gem of a watch. The Neptune, not so much.

Rich Buddy says:

that 5270 with salmon dial is the best watch that can ever be made. Nothing can ever top it. Its the holiest grail. I don’t even know what to say about that NY world timer; WOW !

Tom Lucas says:

The 5205 looks really nice, as the orange aquanaute. Which they have an orange strap for my Rolex explorer

R Zimmerman says:

Tim, where has Josh been? Is he still with you guys?

Alvin Aw says:

Two thumbs up for Tim & your team for consist update. Awesome work guys truly appreciated.

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