Baselworld 2018 at the Patek Philippe stand was an embarrassment of riches. Although previous years of Baselworld have seen Patek Philippe launch more watches at the fair, the depth and quality of the 2018 collection was stunning. In this video review of Patek’s 2018 novelties, Tim Mosso selects his five favorites from the show. The Patek Philippe 5270P perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum with salmon dial was Tim’s overall favorite. Although other Patek Philippe watches have borne the Salmon dial in past years, the common thread tends to be their rarity, significance, or value. Along with the stunning 5270P salmon – the first-ever use of platinum in the Patek Philippe 5270 line – the 5270/1R rose gold variant with full bracelet suggests that these crowning-glory models may hint at the imminent end of the 5270 chronograph line; the previous Patek Philippe 5970P marked the terminal production phase of that storied reference. For the 50th anniversary of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse family, Patek launched a new rare handcrafts Golden Ellipse 5738/50P. The platinum Golden Ellipse includes a 39.5mm x 34.5mm case that keeps the model close to its eponymous “golden” aspect ratio, but the highlight of this model is the black enamel dial with 18-karat white gold base and freehand engraving in art nouveau volute motifs. These exquisite hand-crafted techniques are excruciating to apply and ensure that no two examples of this 100-piece limited edition will be exactly alike; a caliber 240 micro-rotor automatic movement provides power and keeps the Golden Ellipse 3738/50P less than 6.6mm thick. The new Patek Philippe 5205G-013 annual calendar takes a friendly complicated invented by Patek Philippe – the annual calendar – and pairs it with a stunning blue gradient dial. Unlike the beautiful but controversial 2017 Patek Philippe 5170P chronograph, which featured baguette diamond indices, the Baselworld 2018 5205G-013 sports only the sensational dial with its silver-to-navy fade. The Patek Philippe 5531R World Time Minute Repeater returns following its 10-piece limited run at the 2017 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in New York City. Still rose gold and graced with a cloisonné enamel center dial, the patented 5531R World Time Minute Repeater shows 24 time zones simultaneously while correctly chiming the time in whichever reference city is indicated by the world time index. The combination of the two complications to work in synch is the subject of a patent for Patek Philippe. Finally, Tim salutes the playful and practical Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronogaph 5968A. New for 2018 and unprecedented in the Aquanaut sports watch line, the Aquanaut Chronograph is a stainless steel celebration of the youthful spirit an unassuming profile of the Aquanaut. Unlike its older and Sterner (sorry!) brother, the Nautilus, the Aquanaut Chronograph carries little snob baggage or weight of history on its 42.2mm shoulders. The Patek Philippe 5968A sports cheerful sunburst grey, white gold hands and indices, and flourishes of bright orange color on its dial; a full orange composite strap is available for those who want to make an even more casual statement. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph remains water resistant to 120 meters and features a sapphire display caseback through which to appreciate the caliber CH 28-520 automatic flyback chronograph movement. If given a choice between the Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A and the new Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G, Tim would choose the Aquanaut and pocket the $70,000 difference.
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