Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 Luxury Watch Review

Watchuwant is now WatchBox! Browse our selection of Patek Philippe here:

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 has it all: classical design; chronograph, dual-time, and take-it-swimming sportswatch versatility. And because it’s a Patek Philippe sports watch, you can wear all of the above with a business suit as well as a bathing suit.

Combine the best elements of the original 1976 Nautilus 3700, the 2006 Nautilus 5980 chronograph, and the 2011 Aquanaut TravelTime 5164, and you get the Nautilus 5990/1A.

Let’s start with the simple pleasure of brushed and polished stainless steel, just as original Nautilus creator Gerald Genta envisioned. As of 2014, the old steel-only Nautilus 5980 chronograph was discontinued. If you want the only proper metal for a sports watch, the only true metal for a Nautilus, and the metal that comprises less than 20 percent of total Patek Philippe annual production, you had better line up for the Nautilus 5990/1A. Or skip the line, because this 5990/1A is available from with no dealer wait list… and all of the factory warranty coverage!

How about complications? The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A has got ’em in droves. With a chronograph, automatic winding, a radial date, two independent time zones, and twin AM/PM indicators, there is no practical complication that this watch lacks. Even better, Patek Philippe has done a masterful job of integrating this mass of mechanical mastery into a clean and uncluttered package that leaves Gerald Genta’s original Nautilus design minimally disturbed. And that’s no mean accomplishment.

The signature Nautilus case “wings” are a case-in-point. While the chronograph pushers reprise the delicate taper and minimalist profile of their forerunners on the 5980, check out the travel time adjusters on the opposite flank. What, you claim you don’t see the travel time adjusters? Of course you do; Patek Philippe has turned the nine o’clock case “wing” into a bifurcated +/- hour adjuster for the local time zone. Clever, no?

The same level of attention to detail and aesthetic harmony has endowed the Patek Philippe 5990/1A with a dial that exhibits both vertical and bilateral symmetry. Again, the sheer amount of data being conveyed renders this a triumph of packaging prowess and engineering elegance. Even better, the romantic “gradient dial” of the original Nautilus design remains unspoiled. With plenty of open real estate to shift its shade, the dial’s romantic transition from intense cumulonimbus borders to argent center is easy to distinguish.

As complicated sports watches go, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 ranks among the best of the best. But the best isn’t easy to find, especially if you aren’t on the “friends and family” plan at an authorized Patek Philippe dealer.

Fortunately, WatchBox has the fish everyone is looking to land. It’s available with full factory boxes, manuals, accessories, and documents of provenance. Even better, this watch was obtained with factory warranty only days prior to the filming of our video, so it retains virtually the entire Patek Philippe factory protection against all defects in workmanship, materials, and performance.

Own it today: visit to see this Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 in high-resolution images with all accessories. Video and content by Tim Mosso.


stelthtalon says:

Great review! I have a quick question though. When the chronograph is not in use the Patek website says the hand doubles as running seconds. Is that true? If so how does it work? Thanks, again I really enjoy your videos!

Joseph Tan says:

I’m in the market for a Nautilus in the next 60-90 days. I actually put down a deposit for a 5726/1A-001 – Stainless Steel – Men – Nautilus so I could lock-in a cheaper rate while the dollar strength is high. I have an opportunity to acquire this watch as well, but really enjoy the moon phase in the prior watch. Do you mind telling me the main differences between the watch I put under deposit and this one? Obviously, this one has two time zones. Which is more of a collector’s item? Better watch? etc…

pavy415 says:

looks like a AP copy -_-

Daniel Tavares says:

I think its a fantastic piece. But I can’t seem to understand the justification for such price. It’s overpriced in my opinion

Colquitt Hanks says:

Great review. Loved the commentary. It was very articulate, efficient, and detailed while not overbearing or long. You kept my attention for the full 10 minutes.

Michael Shein says:

Looking into my 5990 now through my AD. Do you think they will discontinue the 5980r?

Ahmed Helmi says:

This watch costs almost the price of a 5711 plus a 5164. Wouldn’t it make more sense to buys two watches from same maker both are considered icons than buying single watch which is also an icon?

Erik Ternsjö says:

Beautiful watch and great review. Unfortunately, I haven’t managed to see one in person yet. Too much demand and too little supply 🙁
What do you think of my review of the Patek 5205G?

Predator says:

wow, that was a nice review. good job.

Mario Lopez says:

What does this watch have that makes it so much more expensive than the Overseas and the Royal Oak?

Nick Pol says:

Nice pice, no question about Pate Philippe worth whole attention in the world. 

TopangaMatthews says:

When they finally deign to launch a 5990/1R and make this incredible watch in rose gold, I will re-mortgage my house and RUN to my local AD.

Z M says:

Wasn’t the 5960 their first automatic chronograph?…

GorgeousGangsta Laz says:

Great review!! I have this piece and it is everything as described and more. I remember when I first bought it I pretty shunned all my other timepieces for about a month lol

Jonathan Klein says:

Another great review by watchuwantinc. I’m happy to have added the 5990 to my collection…such a great piece!

Anil Sim says:

Great review! Very detailed and informative. Subscribed 🙂

1ro says:

hi tim,
what do you think about nautilus 5711 and VC overseas.

im struggling and cannot make up my mind for my next time piece.

anyway i really like your channel , it offer lots of information

+1 subscriber

 Write a comment


Do you like our videos?
Do you want to see more like that?

Please click below to support us on Facebook!