Rolex “Sub”-Standards, Revival Watch Brands: Lange & Lesser! Breitling Preimier vs TAG Heuer Autavia

Win the Tudor Black Rose for November!:

Watch Buyers, watch sellers, and watch collectors agree; Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso is the luxury watch web show to see on Monday nights. Tonight, we discuss two Rolex Submariners that are just a bit too “colorful” for their own good; these Rolex “Hulk” and “Smurf” Subs are cartoonishly silly. When buying Rolex, it’s best to avoid eBay ads written in the style of foreign language social media troll-bots.

We discuss the GPHG 2018 and potential winners at the Oscars of watchmaking. Tim makes his picks for the GPHG’s next Aiguille d’Or. (Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain) and Petit Aiguille (Gorilla Fastback Drift). Tim also takes a look into the future to contemplate and anticipate the SIHH 2019 and Baselworld 2019 novelties from Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, FP Journe, Zenith, and Seiko.

Taste, style, and watches for graduates come to the fore as Tim advises a recent graduate deciding between a Rolex Datejust 116200 and a Rolex Explorer 214270. When choosing a watch for graduation, discretion, longevity, intangible “specialness” or “sense of occasion,” and, inevitably, price, come into focus.

Revived watch brands are the central focus of tonight’s episode, and we consider the relative fortunes of A Lange & Sohne, Blancpain, and Jaquet Droz. Not every watch brand has a multi-century heritage of unbroken production; the Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger LeCoultre contingent of the watch world are fortunate; they do not need to invent stories to market their history.

Others are not so fortunate, but A Lange & Sohne of Glashutte has made its own luck and forged its own stellar reputation since 1990. Watches including the Lange 1, the Datograph, the Saxonia Thin Copper Blue, and the Triple Split have cemented Lange’s reputation as the German watch upstart that scared Patek Philippe into serious self-reflection.

Blancpain has never built a quartz watch – true – because it was bankrupt during the Quartz Crisis. The company best known for its Fifty Fathoms dive watch as a gleam in Jean Claude Biver’s eye back in 1981, and its subsequent history has witnessed high highs and corresponding nadirs. What is the future of Blancpain? Tim offers his thoughts and analysis.

Jaquet Droz is in a race with Harry Winston to be the official black sheep of the Swatch Group. Neither brand seems to fit, but Harry Winston has a glorious history of luxury gemology, jewelery, and a reputation as jeweler to royalty. Jaquet Droz, on the other hand, is a refugee of the 2000s seeking a clientele, a collector following, and a coherent identity as a brand. What does Jaquet Droz offers watch buyers today? Tim shares thoughts on extracting maximum value for your dollar when buying Jaquet Droz Watches.

All of this and viewer watch wrist shots this evening on Watches Tonight!




Paul Sg says:

On anniversaries: notwithstanding the situation with Omega and Baselworld, I’d be amazed if they didn’t bring out a 50th anniversary moon landing watch at some point in 2019.

Un-Named Trucker says:

So TAG Heuer wants to be Seiko.

Л says:

Very wierd guy,the sunglasses indors…

Jay Remi says:

I love the way Tim pronounce “Aiguille”.
Granted it’s not easy to say for a non French speaking person.

Light 15 says:

Tim. On that Green “hulk” they even suggested that 7 had been sold. Indeed, I would want to know from ebay if sellers have a way of cheating about the number of items sold?

Bobby Smith says:

Great show again Tim my wrist shot did not make it I will try and send again.

Connor Gman says:

Difference between Breitling Avenger, Avenger II, Chronomat, and Colt?

alejandro banuelos says:

Where my sundial people at ???

Geoff Longford says:

Dick with glasses on head time

Abdul Rahman Abdel Razek says:

Hi Tim,
I totally agree on the Datejust, it is my favorite watch, goes on a suit and a swimsuit. I Think that Tag Heuer should produce two lines, Tag, and Heuer, one for mediocre mainstream watches, and one for the cool watches (Heuer). I really like both your pics, but i have to go with the Nomos Glashütte
Tangente neomatik 41 Update for the Challenge category, the Habring²
Doppel-Felix for the Petite Aiguille, and H. Moser & Cie.
Endeavour Flying Hours for the grand prize. A. Lange & Söhne has to the phoenix revival of any watch maker in the past 30 years.
Thanks for the wrist shot share 🙂 my watches enjoyed the holiday as much as i did 😀

six and a third inches sixteen centimeters says:

Hi Tim, while I always expect a great show from you I never take it for granted, thank you for doing the same and always delivering!

Vishal Datta says:

Hi Tim, do you know if the Gorilla watch has lume?

jason starek says:

Big Daddy loves Invicta. Classic.

Al Moscola says:

Hi Tim, I always look forward to tuning in, great job as always!

GetOuttaTheJohnBoy says:

Tim, not to be a hater but each and every piece in that new Breitling Premier line already has an existing counterpart in the Carreras. The only difference is Kern is asking $1,000 to $5,000 more for his watches. That and the ‘Heuer’ small second offers a date as well. They both utilize the ETA 2895-2 save the ones with the Bo1, but those are the $5,000 more versions. Seems like a familiar formula came over from IWC as well. Use a REALLY expensive in-house version of an ETA to justify wildly inflated prices for an actual ETA. Looking forward to the ‘Sellita Switch’ in a year or so.

Watch Aficionado says:

Patek 324SC is a disappointing movement from a technical perspective. Overrated…

Gerold At Large says:

Good comments about GPHG. Stay tuned.

Cranking All Day says:

Did you forget the Omega speedy? Huge year for it next year

Halebopp says:

Awesome show tonight.

Daniel Katz says:

Tim, off topic, I’m getting a touch hard sell from a friend to go to supposedly free( nothings free) on a workshop by husband and wife time that look like emailing Amway advocates , or multi marketing , whatever, does not feel right…I’d rather do one on one someone in the know to help set up, for an hour every six weeks, and make my mistakes and learn self developing social media onMY OWN……hate these personal training social media multi marketing gurus…..what say you…..and you can opt out also…open to others for feedback

Watch Aficionado says:

I don’t think Biver succeeded with Zenith… Dufour and even his predecessor (that shall not be named) did it

Neil Lewis says:


Don Rogan says:

Got a good laugh from the TAG rant, all true, very funny. Good insight.

Daniel Katz says:

Meant to say husband and wife team

Zander Brown says:

I think you should show seller names on the shame segment. Can’t say name and shame if we don’t name!

Daniel Sevell says:

Hahaha! 3:20

Not 100m, but 10m of water resistance. As you said, good for a laugh but not on the wrist.

WatchBox Reviews says:

Hi all,
We had some connectivity issues (US east coast internet brown-outs), so there are some skips and jumps in the video. I apologize for these, but it was out of my hands; the jumps are minimally disruptive.

eric kirner says:

petition to rename WatchBox to TimTime

10:10 Tock says:

100th anniversary of Bauhaus design next year too. I’m sure quite a few brands might celebrate it in some capacity.

Juan Olmos says:

Love georges kern in charge of breitling

monkeynatham says:

I’m Vivek R! Thanks for featuring my batman wrist shot!

City of Gentlemen says:

I don’t see the Tudor link

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