Rolex Pricing Fairness; Breitling Premier Critique; GPHG 2018 Snubs & Winners: Rolex, Seiko, IWC

Watch buyers and watch collectors join Watchbox’s Tim Mosso for an evening of spirited discussion, luxury watch news, and analysis of events in the wide world of Rolex, Omega, and beyond. Naturally, a discussion of Rolex prices and fairness opens our live news and debate segment.

Rolex prices often seem dear; the watch designs are fairly static; models like the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Submariner often see a decade or more pass without major redesigns; long waitlists at Rolex dealers have led some watch collectors to wonder whether Rolex production and pricing is acceptable.

Tim believes that not only is Rolex retail pricing fair, but the Geneva giant is keeping the faith with both current Rolex buyers and Rolex collectors to be. Rolex constrains production to preserve its brand equity and keep the faith with collectors who have waited patiently; their investment is safe from overproduction. Rolex keeps designs consistent in order to avoid planned obsolescence. Finally, Rolex sees that aftermarket pricing of Rolex GMT Master, Daytona, Sky Dweller, and even Submariners often doubles or even triples the MSRP of these watches; Rolex resists the temptation to gouge its customers.

As a point of comparison, Tim cites Patek Philippe’s spring 2018 decision to raise the price of the Nautilus 5711/1A by over 25% after having made scant upgrades to the watch itself since 2006.

Tim discusses watches for Halloween. If “Orange” is a general theme for Halloween watches, it’s also the feature that often relegates Halloween-themed luxury watches to once-a-year status. Tim cites the Rolex Milgauss, Doxa Sub 1200T, and Gronefeld Principia automatic as Halloween-approved watches that won’t turn into a pumpkin on November 1.

Finally, Tim offers his take on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) 2018; favorite categories, preferred candidates, and watches snubbed by the GPHG nomination process are our focus for the night. Tim cites his favorite candidates from Akrivia (Chronometre Contemporaine) Seiko (SLA025), Uysse Nardin (Freak Vision), Reservoir (Longbridge British Racing), D. Candaux (David Candaux Half Hunter), and more. Notably absent potential champions including the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer, Rolex 126710 Pepsi GMT, and the IWC Tribute to Pallweber receive shout-outs.




Jan Novotny says:

I just love watching this show. Always very fun, informative and delivering news from all corners of watch industry. The downside my wallet seems suffer greatly every now and then. Oh, wanted to ask, does Watchbox Switzerland have its own website? I couldn’t find any info on that with my quick search.

elitemathlete says:

I wonder who A Lang’s son is.

DubplateMelter says:

Clocks going back in made me miss this live, time to catch up!

Un-Named Trucker says:

Mosso For Secretary Of Timekeeping.

Al Moscola says:

Great show, you never disappoint, have a great night and stay well!

Peter Shallis says:

Wow! a Breitling for grown ups range. Seriously love these, here in the U.K. Breitling has much less kudos than they appear to have in the U.S. where they are almost on a par with Omega, but these new pieces are a delight and address that issue to some extent..

zachariahwheat says:

An AD showed me the Rolex Pepsi (spoken for) and the Tudor GMT side by side and I liked the Tudor better. It’s chunky, but it’s matte dial is easier to read, there’s no cyclops over the date, and the bezel is more subtle. I’d only purchase the Rolex Pepsi if I intended to flip it.

phillip franco says:

You must get this question a lot, but why do you wear sunglasses on your head? Is it because the studio lights are bright and your are light sensitive? Is it because you like the style? Is it because you forget you have them on your head?

Please enlighten me, I wouldn’t go with that style choice but to each their own.

Sir Bufton Tufton says:

Tim, would be interested in your thoughts here. For Patek, it genuinely seems that demand for the Nautilus, probably their most mainstream model, simply exploded. It would have been hard for them to not make some price adjustment to account for this.

For Rolex, and this is where I’d like your confirmation, it seems that they chose to restrict supply of SS sports models. When it started a year ago, your thoughts were that this is what Rolex does each year once they’ve met their sales goals, but their squeeze on supply has now lasted 12 months. So are Rolex still holding back supply against relatively normal or high-ish demand, or are they back supplying volumes as in the past, with the shortage caused by hugely increased demand?. I get that Rolex has always encouraged a shortage on certain niche models (Hulk, maybe Daytona etc), but now even the mainstream models are wait-listed. If this is a case of exploding demand, then I applaud Rolex for holding the line on pricing. But if, for whatever reason, they are still choking supply, then it’s a situation of their own creation, and would have been cynical indeed for them to raise prices.

BTW, I went into a Rolex boutique in Shanghai two weeks ago. I’d say 3/4 of the display area was empty, with just a few gold and two tones on show. Worse than I’ve seen here in Europe. The dealer just shrugged and said he couldn’t get steel models.

Amintas Neto says:

Great show Tim!
Yes, yes, yes! Breitling is finally in the right direction.
The Premier line is cool ♥️
Now about Akrivia I had a chance to meet and greet with Rexhep Rexhepi a few years ago and got impressed with the work done by his tiny but impressive company.
In summary, this young and talented gent have the perfect skills set to become future market icon.


Mohamed Alketbi says:

Tim ,,, what is your opinion about Montblanc Mesiterstück chrono sport watch with black bazal ,,, an old model ,,,, I often think about similarity to submariner ??

Richard Baptist says:

Everyone loves the AkriviA “Rexhep Rexhepi” Chronomètre Contemporain I agree with you on the watchmaker being a star in the future. The chronograph should be the Singer which was snubbed last year when is the AgenGraphe Caliber By Jean-Marc Wiederrecht get some love? I was outraged last year when it didn’t win. I don’t understand how the Lang triple split was snubbed. I agree on the double impulse Chronometer on a horological level this is a masterpiece. Agree with you on the freak being the winner. I looked at the reservoir, but I went with the gorilla fastback drift with the wandering hours module by vaucher.

edu danel says:

That Green Bentley chrono wants to be a Polaris Chronograph from JLC. DON’T LIKE THE NEW FACE OF BREITLING AT ALL

g xx says:

Thanks for the Monday mailbag feature! Certainly the antihero of choice

Parag Patel says:

Not sure I am satisfied with the rolex pricing segment of the show. Everything you discuss to suggest the prices are fair is based on desirability, brand value, brand strategy. One could argue that rolex increased it’s prices far more than inflation over the years compared to it’s peers and is now near the top of the mark (10k for a basic steel sport watch) which is a mental barrier for the average customer. Nothing is said about the tangibile product that you hold in your hand ( build quality, movements, finishing etc) vs it’s peers street price. This is what I wanted to hear.

Bobby Smith says:

Awesome show Tim got my fingers crossed for the Tudor………

J S says:

Prices (certainly those for unnecessary items like luxury watches) can only be unfair if people aren’t paying them.

Louis Yammine says:

Hello Tim, from the middle east indeed. Beirut!

Ian Gault says:

Yo from Doha Qatar. Didn’t make the livestream but here as always for the catch up when the sun rises. GMT+3 makes it usually sleepy time when you guys are live. Never fear – the Middle East (or at least my piece of it) is with you

Literod5 says:

Stunned to hear my name as the winner. Can’t wait to get the watch.

Tomasina Covell says:

I suspect it’s much more likely that the SEIKO mother of the Marinemaster doesn’t care if it gets helium in it because it can handle it without its crystal popping, not that it keeps the helium out. And people usually don’t realize too that this problem with dive watches isn’t at all directly connected with being exposed to any water necessarily.

Sylvain Duford says:

The T and the C are silent in Mont Blanc.

steven uk1 says:

Price gauging, over producing, oversizing to the point no one could wear them except the Incredible Hulk… and the biggest culprits: Richemont, LVMH and Breitling… and who is hurting today: Richemont, LVMH and Breitling. Cleaning… I hear many collectors say not to use any cleaning solution, rather only warm water and an old soft toothbrush is all that is ever needed.

docbizzler says:

My name was mispronounced when the winner got called. Hopefully it gets sent to the correct e-mail! Thanks! All jokes aside, very interesting and informative! Great Job!

UXXV says:

Pronounced Edin-bur-uh Tim my good man!

Watches Sneakers says:

Green dials are hotter that ever!!

Andrew Kendall says:

Great content. Always a highlight of the week.

Geoffrey Dapper says:

those sunglasses GOTTA come off!

S4YY1D says:

Hey Tim

What are your thoughts on AP, when I first got into the watch world I brushed them as a brand with a one trick pony, but as I recently started reading their history, I was shocked and my view on the brand changed dramatically, but why are they only holding on to the Royal oak?!
I feel that they’re throwing a huge part of their heritage away by not focusing on their dress watch section as well.

G Miyata says:

Nice one!

Fernando Sbert says:

Bro loose the glasses!!!!!

elitemathlete says:

Check out my twitter for the top 10 halloween watches below $5,000!

pilotstyle123 says:

Tim absolutely on fire tonight!

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