Mailbag! Patek Philippe v Breguet; Vacheron’s Relevance? Dive Watches & Engineer Watches

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Tonight, Tim Mosso talks luxury watches for watch collectors and luxury watch buyers. We open our program with a showdown between Patek Philippe and Breguet — established names in luxury watches but very different approaches to the luxury sports watch. Baselworld 2018 brought watch collectors a new Breguet Marine Automatic, the Breguet 5517 in titanium. Patek Philippe’s long-running Aquanaut 5167A counters the Breguet Marine’s advanced caliber 777A and unique titanium case with impeccable movement finish, proven resale value, and the peerless brand standing of the Patek Philippe name. Questions from watch buyers concerning Vacheron Constantin come to the fore as Tim previews his upcoming mono-brand “Monday Mailbag: Vacheron Constantin” watch collector’s special. A question from a user seeking a dive watch leads to a discussion of alternatives to the Rolex Submariner – especially the 116610. A collection of alternatives is proposed, and it includes the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs Automatic, the Chopard LUC Pro One Diver, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, and the Grand Seiko SBGA031 Spring Drive Diver. Finally, Tim takes a graduation-bound engineering student on a tour of IWC Ingenieur models that might make the perfect graduation gift from his family. Finally, Tim shares wrist shots of watches from our global audience of watch collectors; watches shared include a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control, a Panerai Luminor Marina PAM 422, an FP Journe Chronometre Blue, and a classic Omega Seamaster 300M 2531.80.00, the famed “James Bond Seamaster” from most of Pierce Brosnan’s turns as 007. Remember to like, comment, and subscribe for more great content from WatchBox Studios.


JohnSmithisnotme says:

I’m sad that breguet new marine line has an integrated lugs with straps rather than a very nice bracelet / strap like the overseas

1000lightyrs says:

Tim, you’re awesome, and a great episode this was, especially when the Ingenieur stuff started. But I grow tired of correcting people about the movements used in late IWC’s (Pilots and Ingy’s). The 3239 had an ETA 2892 based 30110 movement, not Sellita. As did the Mark 15, 16, 17, and still most of the XVIII’s. Sorry but I’m passionate about this, as I did own a Portofino with Sellita based 35111, and it is surely not as solid feeling as the 2892 base.

six and a third inches sixteen centimeters says:

The Aquanaut is like a boys watch companies used to make back in the day. Seriously, how desperate an ego would you need to buy that? Oh, about as desperate as a Nautilus buyer but poorer. These Patek ‘sport” models are the joke of the industry.

Sir Bufton Tufton says:

I’ve always liked the Aquanaut. Like others, the new Brequet just looks strange, and maybe takes time to get used to. With real money, I’d try and pick up a pre-owned Brequet 5817 for a bit under $10K. That’s a special watch, and much rarer than any PP.

mohammad amin says:

Vacheron Constantin is Oldest member and Founder of Haute Horology . Finishing Standards are above pp who are producing so many watches till they lost control over Finishing Quality and there are many complaints about that among watch experts , pp also taking advantage of widely spread advertising by amateurs in the watch field to overprice their watches . Yes , their watches are overpriced and Vacheron Constantin has higher Finishing Standards . Tim , Please emphasize on these points in your next episode.

Kieren Moore says:

666AD, aka ‘The Devil’s Datejust’ … ? 😛

JBOsurf says:

Not getting notifications anymore ???

TopSecretVid says:

i missed the live show..shucks

Eric Thornton says:

What was the watch on wrist. JLC, but what model?

Ryan Doppelganger says:

Love the VC Overseas…for me prefer it to the AP RO and the Aquanaut. Love the look of the Nautilus but VC resonates more with me

steven uk1 says:

I can offer one reason for what is wrong with VC… Richemont. I used to collect IWC but bought none since the “oversized fashion pieces” of George Kern… very intrigued by what will happen to Breitling.

Alejandro Díez says:

Tim, just wanted to say you do a fantastic job on the show. Keep it up. Greetings from Colombia.

highnrising says:

Tim,Your Watchbox team needs to do something to make it easier to view the live casts.I used to receive emails that you were on live, and if I clicked on the link, it would take me to the cast. I don’t receive any YouTube/Watchbox emails anymore.And if I click on YouTube and go to the Watchbox channel, I find links to a bunch of seemingly random videos–some of them several years old–but no link to or mention of the cast that’s currently running live!I know you’re costing yourselves  viewers.

TopSecretVid says:

i would like the Patek with a no date dial

yukinomichi8 says:

Hi Tim. I love your videos. That said I feel JLC should be in the holy trinity as they supply movements to the current trinity at some point. So either VC or AP should be replaced by JLC for sure. Oh one more thing. I just randomly walked into a JLC boutique and the rep voluntarily took me to a room and showed me one of 8 in the world gyrotourbillon model made by JLC, at approx 675,000 USD. He said only one female master craftsman can make it. That blew me away. It was so beautiful it made me rethink JLC. One of eight. And sold waiting for its new owner.

Amintas Neto says:

Great watch talk as usual Tim!
Looking forward to the Vacheron special edition.
BTW, I’m in love the Platinum tourbillion you’ve just shown! 🙂


Tom Johansson says:

I wish they didn’t touched the Marine. Such an iconic piece as it was.

Conrad Magalis says:

Tim, I picked up an amazing AMG Ingie last week! Did you see Yoda’s post with our WWC on Instagram?

Mark Thorpe says:

Love Breguet but could not buy any model that does not feature their famous hands.That Patek doesn’t do it for me either.

Watch lover in Hawaii says:

Another great show. Amazing i missed everything. Thank you

Geoff Longford says:

While you wear your glasses on your head I won’t watch you.
Just speaking for myself but I kind of think for some others as well.

Slapshot 007 says:

Great show as always Tim. Can’t wait for the VACHERON only episode. Good idea and an interesting brand with a lot of history. Maybe single brand focused episodes could be a nice occasional thing. Perhaps Breguet sometime in the future. Ps your subscriber numbers are not rising fast enough for my liking! You are a treasure trove of knowledge and this channel is vastly superior to many other watch channels. All the best

Lionel Borcy says:

Hello Tim I think I deleted my comment before 🙁
I like watching your shows, you know a lot about watches.
I want to buy a watch from the swatch group (because I work for them) and I have a budget of 1500$ (retail price). Longines legend diver is a bit too expensive for me and I think about buying the Hamilton interstellar. Do you see anything in between that I would like?

10:10 Tock says:

lange replaced VC in the holy trinity long ago

David B. says:

Great show as always Tim. Please keep up the great work.

Bubba B says:

This or that? Neither. Programming has been fairly mixed up these last weeks . You going thru a growing transition or are we getting back to some normalcy? Nor many faces being seen. Not feeling it. So what does your mother prefer as far as brands are concerned? Mothers are feisty. Show was okay, better luck next time. Good luck.

Daniel Katz says:

What is your guess servicing costs to your baby, De Duomètre à Chronographe , Ariel had a nice piece on this in his September 15, 1014 blog

Austin Nelson says:

He has to loose the glasses.

BaeJiaoFlying says:

Great show. I learn so much watching these shows.

Taylor Zalewski says:

Being in my 30s and exploring and obtaining greater timepieces, VC has zero appeal to me. I own the BLNR and looking for an AP soon, but VC has nothing in a youthful option that I would even consider for the price. I do love Ulysse but already have one..just bought a Tudor Pelagos but liking the brand more in terms of appeal…not in the same level as VC but VC’s are so dated

Kieren Moore says:

Never been impressed by VC – not sure why not …
PP, AL&S and JLC are my trinity.
But then, the RO does nothing for me, so …

David Elliott says:

Not a fan of the new Breguet Marine. I don’t like the applied numerals.

Michael DeMaio says:

I think VC currently offers a much better variety of beautiful watches than AP, one trick pony.

Ryan M says:

ALSO: Re VC, my concern isn’t anything to do with non Geneva sealed movements in their new 58 line, it’s more to do with having a serialized dress watch in steel. Not a bad thing at all in itself (steel is real), but it sends out a message regarding the position they wish to occupy in the market – joining closer to JLC, Cartier & IWC, and (a smidgen) further away from PP and AL&S. My 2c.

Having said that, looking forward to being schooled next week by your VC mono-brand show 🙂

Tom Lucas says:

Great show Tim, lovely JLC, the Breguet looks great a bit chopard style. Chopard has the most beautiful GMT lately. What do you think about it? The LUC GMT has not a litlle rotor is this a cheaper movement?

Ryan M says:

The integrated lug design on the new Breguet Marines look a bit awkward imo. Shame, as the blue dial variant is sweet.

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